Ah, Morocco ! Its medinas, its souks, its desert and…its wines !?! So yes, this country has an old wine tradition and his first wine dates from VI century B.C. !!! Today, some passionates perpetauate this tradition…with success !
We start by classics Moroccan wines: the Quietly sat on a terrace, with a background sunset, the tasting promises to be pleasant. Some olives and a 100% Sauvignon Blanc arrives. With it yellow colour, it promises a nice fruity set. Then, the nose is seduced by a peachy fragrance. Before that the palate announces flowers and citrus fruits, balanced by a beautiful acidity. After à 35°C day, it might be more appreciated ! That’s why the following Cabernet Sauvignon was a little bit hard… Drunk in winter with a good meat with gravy, it would have been perfect. But here, I admit that it made me sweat The touch of blackcurrant and ripe fruits are really present, tannins are quite melty and a good length, but 14%, it was too much for me…But anyway, the Celliers of Meknès offers quality produce with the first Moroccan’s AOC (Les Coteaux de l’Atlas) and possess 85% of the national wine production. Then, the happy owner, Brahim Zniber, dominates the Moroccan wine market. That’s why, after knowing this nearly monopoly, I have been to the south, in Ounagha, near Essaouira, to know the small Charles Melia’s vineyard: the Val d’Argan. Here, we change the background. We are close to the Ocean and not far from the desert. So, the vineyards enjoy some original conditions. That’s why Charles Mélia came here. But not only. It’s a sentimental story too. After taking over the family business Château de la Font du Loup in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, he came back to these origins, because during his childhood, he grew up in Morocco. He speaks arabic, loves this country and doesn’t hesitate to train a Moroccan cellar master, on the job, since his establishment in 1994. The cepages: some classics from the Valley Rhône with GSM (Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre) and Muscat for red and rosé, and Clairette, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc, Roussane in white. In total, some 20 000 bottles per year…well, it changes compare to the 28 000 000 from the Celliers of Meknès ! Leaning to the counter of his restaurant, which magnificently overlooks his estate, the sympathic Alima proposes a fully tasting. The two first white wine are not really my cup of tea. The vintage El Mogador is fat, with low acidity and no length without fruits. A range entry not really successful…Clearly, La Gazelle is more seducing by it pronunced muscat but still simple, the high acidity from the fresh climate is a bit annoying. Whereas, the red wines offer an aromatic palette really interesting !La Gazelle shows a toffee and chocolate nose…but still vegetable and close in the mouth. Few years and it will be perfect. Meanwhile, without hesitation you should go toward the Val d’Argan 2012, 170 dirham (15€). It’s all the Rhone Valley’s aromas, but more intense ! It nice purple colour lets guess some liquorice aromas, before to melt in your mouth thanks to remarkable tannins, refined chocolate, redcurrant and ripe strawberries, without forgetting spices, which remind you that you are in Morocco !!! So, it’s a beautiful date between France and Morocco for an excellent price-quality ratio. But I won’t finish this article without a heart-stopper, for once, for the rosé El Mogador at 110 dirham (10€). After a hot day, be regaled of this fresh beverage with pear, peach and rose aromas, a real delight !!! Then now, when someone will speak to you about Morocco, you could think of wines, without to be silly !