Mâconnais: my weakness for Pouilly-Loché and its steeple (2/3)
After La Roche Vineuse, my wine instinct leads me to Loché. It doesn’t state you something and yet, its Pouilly-Loché is worth the journey…as well as a gate of the XVIth century 😉
So yes, when you have a fan of churches as friend, it’s a required visit. I know, I have some stranges friends…Nevertheless, I have to admit that this building gives style to this cute picturesque village, which shelters the appellation Pouilly-Loché. Unknown facing to its famed neighbor Pouilly-Fuissé, and for reason, this appellation covers around thirty hectares against…more than 750 for the star Fuissé. Then, let’s go for an exploration !
So, once the touristic visit over, I am in the famous Clos des Rocs. Why famous ? Watch the picture of the owner. You don’t guess ? Sure ? Even if I say his name: Olivier Giroud (not the football player…) and he posed a short time ago. Well, I help you but it’s the last time. It’s THE “star” of the Spécial Vin 2014 du Point. He is so modest that he is going to kill me when he will read that ! On the other hand, as soon as we talk about wine, it’s serious ! And the friendly Olivier never is at loss for words. So, when I start by a simple question: does it have a real difference with Pouilly-Fuissé ? The answer is biting: “You are a nice guy my dear, but…I don’t know…It’s a community rivalry from the 1930’s which ended in division of Fuissé, Loché and Vinzelles. That’s it.” Once get in the swing of things by his outspokenness, we can get started on wine.
And whithout knowing it, I tuck into the heartstopper of the tasting: the Pouilly-Loché “Les Mûres” 2012 (14,9€). A superb balance with a nose between lemon and minerality, which turns out in your palate. Lively, it’s a big wake up call ! I am ready for the next one: Clos des Rocs Monopole 2012 (17,9€). 70% oaked in a 500 liters barrel and 70 years old vines, it’s toasty and buterry in the nose, it’s straight, mineral and even with a note of quince in the mouth, well it’s a good job ! The 2011 looks like it, but more intense ! But nothing announces the surprise Clos des Rocs Révélation. All in biodynamie, Olivier Giroud tries to work without sulfurs, with the lunar cycles. He can’t really explain it but he notes that the vines are more sensitive to diseases in May, June and July. Without explain it too, the horns cowpat make the vines more balances, more regulars. So, only positive ! 1000 bottles per year, 22€ and atypic. I have rarely a peppery nose, honeyed and “cloves”, to an herbal mouth, even grilled cereals. Only the length disturbed me. But this wine reflected the owner’s dynamism. Full of ideas, a tad rebellious and a good cockiness, he dares, he moves ! We feel a really nice wind of freedom in this Clos des Rocs, and it makes you happy 🙂 I get out less stupid of this interview and the walk leads me towards another domaine: Alain Delaye.
Other atmosphere but still fascinating, I am wonderfully welcomed by Michèle Delaye, Alain’s wife. And everything starts well with the Pouilly-Loché “Les Mûres” 2013 at 14€ which smells the exotics fruits and coats your mouth with smoothness and minerality. I come at the right place again. And it’s confirmed with the superb Pouilly-Loché 2011: toasty, creamy and buttery with notes of exotics too. At 12€, it’s an excellent deal ! But it’s worth to come here because the Alain’s wines have a broad range of aromas. Just as “Les Mûres” 2010 (14€) reminds the oxidising aromas of walnut, tobacco and grilled almonds. Having a weakness for this kind of wine, this one seduces me…
And all this tasting takes place with an interesting discussion about the future of the appellations, especially Pouilly-Fuissé, which will be classified Premier Cru (a part of) between 2017 and 2020. But it will be in the next article, which will finally lead us in this legendary village…with a magnificent church, isn’t it ?