After 2 weeks on the wine road of Chile (and a bit in Argentina), I walk back out from there stunned, happy and disappointed at once. Explanations with this first article of a serie of 5: Maipo Valley.

To be honest, it was the disappointment of the travel. Why ? Let’s begin by the beginning. To be sure about your wine chilean geography, not I doubt about it ;-), this is a small map to locate it. You quickly notice that Maipo is located around the capital city, Santiago. Not think twince, I rent a car and after a small hour driving, I am in the heart of this region to star my visit…except on Sunday. Few wine-cellars are open on Sunday, excluded the big ones like Concha y Toro or Santa Rita. And there, we don’t make the wine road as in Europe: here we book, the visits are calibrated, the timetables fixed and the tasting basics… for the modest sum of money, at least, of 15€ by person ! The buses parade, the groups leave with entire cases of wine, the guides have some touristics formations, without a lot of knowledges about wine. Then, we are in a mass business whcih doesn’t seduce me. And the proximity of Santiago is one of the reason: the groups do the return trip in bus in the day and sleep in Santiago in their hotel, without making a wine road. The other reason: the Chili became the first exporter of “New World” wine, behind the three unousted France, Italy and Spain. The local market doesn’t exist almost and some producers export until 98% of their production. The endorsed audience by this oenotourism is clearly the foreigners. I perceived Maipo more than like a touristic attraction, with an easy access, that a real area passionate by the wine.

So, I went with nerve. I present myself, detailed a bit my wine CV, and…it works. The “guide” says me that I am going to be bore and recommand me toward an other person, able to answer to my questions. Thank you Ailsa, you saved my visit at Santa Rita…because, anyway, some details deserve a visit and a tasting more in-depth.

Peacefully seated close to an hacienda, the story relates that the general O’Higgins, hero of the chilean independance, took refuge there with his 120 soldiers, in 1814 after a stinging defeat. Santa Rita wanted to pay tribute to this event creating its most popular line: 120. I am starting to feel better. Let’s go for the tasting of the Gran Reserva family, the Medalla Real.

Small aside: the classification Reserva, Gran Reserva, Premium … have small meaning. Let’s know that hierarchically the Reserva is the basic model, with 6 months of oak at least.

The advantage with Santa Rita is their presence in 7 wine areas of Chile, and so gives a large range of aromas. Let’s start with the Sauvignon Blanc 2014 of the Leyda Valley. Not really get used with this variety in South America, the lack of acidity disturbs me, but off-set by a body more complex and a higher degree of alcohol. 20% of the wine is oaked in french barrel as well, more common here than in Europe. Some exotics fruits. It’s sympathic…but for 12€…not convinced. Let’s go for the cousin Chardonnay 2014, from Leyda too. Honestly, the balance is well done between a floral acacia, a buttery malolactic and a note of oak for the vanilla and toasty aromas. 12€, I buy it ! Then, the brother-in-law Cabernet Sauvignon of 2011, the regional of the step (Maipo), disappointed me with his capsicum and blackcurrant bud…so, it’s still a chav As for the second part of the tasting, it’s something else !

Here, we are in a prestige tasting, with the bosses of the house. The right arm is called Triple C. Why this name ? 65% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% de Carménère. QED ! In the nose and the palate, we change the category: ripes black fruits, tobacco and new french oak for 17 months. That’s heavy duty…too much for me, especially for 32€. Let’s go to see the elder, Carmen Gold. Remember in this article, it’s in this place that the Carménère was rediscovered. But I taste a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, without doubt the best of the trip. Located in the Maipo Alto (the Maipo’s best region), I rarely found this balance between the vegetable side of the capsicum and the mint, developing notes of black fruits as well (plum, bueberry), all well integrated in a velvety butter. It’s 90€, but I don’t drink that everyday ! Then, the godfather  Casa Real 2011 (90€). Reverently, I taste the unique wine of South America which was awarded among the wines of legend by Decanter…for the vintage 1989. A classical chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, which made the reputation of this region: intense colour, depth and elegant, between ripe fruits, sweet spices and silky tanins. Respect…

However, my little pleasure was the eccentric Bougainville: 95% Petite Syrah and 5% Syrah. Obviously, it’s a question of flavour, these 2 varieties being my favourites. But having red fruits (strawberry, rapsberry) raised by the liquorice and the chocolate in your palate, I don’t get tired of that, even for 50€. A HUGE THANK YOU Ailsa,because thanks to you, Maipo and Santa Rita will stay good memories.

But before returning to the incredible Calma de Rita to sleep, I make a stop in the small cellar of William Fèvre. Basically, this wine-grower from Chablis went in San Juan de Pirque (Maipo) to produce some wines. Unfortunately, again, a disapointment with a saleswoman who knows almost nothing. So, only the groups have an importance, and for independents, we can go somewhere else. Curious about the result of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of a Burgundian here, I bought both. The Pinot Noir won’t go down in history, but again, it’s a question of taste. This variety doesn’t attract me so much. But if you are looking for a fruity wine (strawberry, red cherry, rapsberry), easy, low tanin and young, it’s for you (12€). On the other side, if I knew that this Chardonnay would be so expressive between the citrus, the minerality, a lemon zest, all well incorporate in these buttery and toasty particularities, I would have bought more, especially for 7,5€ !!!

The quality of some wines would have saved the general impression about Maipo, but what I don’t know yet, it’s that region will be the only “disappointment” of the travel. Next time, we cross the Andes to join Mendoza and the Vendimia !