Goodbye Mendoza ! Chile here I am (again), in your splendid Aconcagua Valley. From San Felipe to Valparaiso, follow me in the paradise…and not only for the wine !
After long and trying hours driving in the Andes, again (I know, you feel sorry for me 😉 ), I am well pampered by Gloria in her Hostel San Felipe. How can I say ? Few people command respect. Your admire them after few hours and Gloria is one of them. Her kindness, her dedication and her experience are really good lessons for everyone. Emotional moment guaranteed. And for all, a big THANK YOU ! It was the sentimental minute…
But apart from all these qualities, she knows te place inside out and will guide you toward all the vineyards you want. It comes at the right time, I went here for that…too. So, not think twice, let’s go towards THE mythical production of the Aconcagua: Errazuriz. Why mythical ? On a day of 1870, Don Maximiano Errazuriz decides to create the first vineyard, located in the North of Santiago. Cold and rainy winter, dry and hot summer, all tempered by the breeze of the Pacific and a great exposure, no more to convince him. A legend is born and you feel it, through the visit. We start to meet the pioneers, thanks to the portraits exhibited in the big restaurant, magnificently “wooded”.
Then, the weight of the history becomes more apparent when we go down in the cellar from 1915, with a constant 20°C. Here are displayed the “iconics” wines, including Seña. It’s the first emblematic wine of Chile, produced in 1995, with Robert Mondavi, giant of the Napa Valley. The vintage 2012 was, simply, elected as the best Chilean wine. But we are still without knowing how they produce it, only the two winemakers know the exact blend. Hence the term “seña”, meaning “password” in spanish 😉 After this fresh air, the time has come to explore, as Don Maximiano, the vineyard. What can you say ? Place absolutely beautiful where the mountain, the ground and the grape constitute a Dionysiac osmosis…And, of course, I didn’t resist to visit, with a great pleasure the plot of Syrah, which produces another “iconic” wine: la Cumbre, whose the triangle represents the top of the hill where the Syrah is planted. The plot next door of the Carménère, which is used to produce Kai, the “iconic” wine (again) from this variety in Chile. Kai, meaning “leath” in mapuche, Amerindian language from Chile and Argentina. And all these sweet babies are now devised in the modern fief, built in 2000. Well, it’s good to speak, but I have to taste now !
Let’s start with the Sauvignon Blanc Max Reserva 2014 at 13€. Its cute lemon seduces my eye and its citrus fruits my nose. A drawback in the palate with a pronounced lemon zest and a high acidity. But the Syrah Costa Especialidade 2012 improves the marks. 18 months oaked (french second-hand), it’s deep purple with typical aromas of blakberry and blueberry, coated in a “chocolate liquoriced” really well done. Only the note of vanilla disturbs me aftertaste…purist question. But it’s still really good, especially for 15€ and with 2/3 years more. And then, we tackle Don Maximiano himself. “Iconic” wine with a blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère, Malbec, Petit Verdot, oaked 22 months in 65% new barrel, it releases a strong blackcurrant, pepper and capsicum. All well melted in your mouth. Good job again at…70€.
But just finished with this amazement, that my intention falls on the next door: Von Siebenthal. He looks like a dwarf with his 32 ha, in front of the 2000 giant neighbor. And yet, it didn’t prevent him to become an international reference. This ex-lawyer (I let you guess from which country with the picture 😉 ) founds this vineyard in 1998, with the help of 4 friends. Year after year, the wines become better until to attain the excellence. Solicitous over the detail, each name of the wine batch has a meaning. Parcela 7 is the first historical plot of the house. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet France give to this wine structure and corpulence. I tasted the 201, but you can keep it 2/3 years more. It’s promising ! But the jewel, it’s Carabantès. This 85% syrah and 15% cabernet sauvignon pays tribute to the spanish monk, whose emigrated to Chile in 1554 and planted there the first vines. Despite its youthful (2011), it gives a velvety texture, well balanced between the black fruits and the peppery and minty spices of the Syrah. Great ! Then, the 100% Petit Verdot 2007 merits more patience to bow its blacks and dries fruits. Hence its name of Toknar, “rock” in mapuche to qualify the strength of this variety. Let’s know that it was appointed by Robert Parker as the best Petit Verdot of the world ! You see, how can’t to fall in love of this Valley ??? Especially if you eat in the Peruvian restaurant of San Felipe . A ceviche only perfect !
I feel so happy, surrounding by these winegrowers angels, that I can’t resist to visit another: Viña San Esteban. 160 ha headed by 5 Chilean enologists, their goal: a production of an easy-drinking wine, with 10 years old maximum. Honest, they immediately want to give a pleasure to their customers. Not really in the European tradition, I am a bit sceptical…not for a longtime. The range In Situ Signatures is an exciting price-quality ratio, with a touch of originality. The white Chardonnay-Viognier (60/40) is the white heart-stopper of the travel ! He perfectly matches the body and the exotics fruits of the Chardonnay with the flowers and the apricot of the Viognier, lightly toasty. I melted…How much ? 7€ ! I am fainting… But I snap out of it for the Syrah/Mourvèdre/Viognier (55/40/5). ‘The elegance of the Syrah with the animal side of the Mourvèdre, raised by the violet. And like the others, there is the historical detail: In Situ because the grapes are located on the archeological site of Paidahuen, place where Pre-Inca and Mapuche lived.
Truly, this valley couldn’t finish with a better way in Valparaiso…”The Paradise Valley”…isn’t it Neruda ?
