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Mendoza’s wines ? Malbec and Vendimia of course ! (2/5)

The opportunity was too attractive, too tempting. After Maipo, crossing the Andes (that’s already wonderful), drinking the Mendoza’s wines and watch the Vendimia‘s show…the dream !!!

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Sometimes, having a long drive isn’t a problem. So, I don’t speak about of Paris, Place de l’Etoile a Friday at 6pm, but sooner a road in which the unique obstacle is…the customs. Otherwise it’s, almost, a private way !!! All to lead to…the Malbec’s country, where you have a half-bottle included in your menu at McDonald’s !?! This is the life. Today, Argentina is really becoming for the whole world, THE country of the malbec. However, that was a bad start for this variety which had a bad reputation in Cahors, its native land. Too close of the sea, feeble thermal amplitude, a mediocre quality of the soil, … made this wine rough and lumpy, hence its nickname “mala boca”, it means “bad mouth”. But there is no better way that confirm by oneself 😉

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I focused on Lujan de Cuyo, south of Mendoza, place of the purity of Malbec, with the oldest ungrafted variety in the world. With pleasure, I visit the Bodega Bonfanti. From an Italian family, the founder Roberto wanted to pursue the tradition of his Italian parents producing wine. That’s why born the bodega in 2004. The visit, at last after Maipo, more detailed and highlighted with the problems of the country. Struck by th drought these lasts yearsthere is a strict regulation. So the water, coming from the melted snow of Andes, is officially regulated. Each producer has a quantity and a precise period to irrigate, to avoid a new drought. A system that works and only the summer hail looks as the biggest problem now. However, the economic situation is more worrying. For the small wine-growers, the future is really unpredictable with a strong dollar, an inflation skying rocket and an unsteady economy. But, unlike to Chili, 75% of the national production is consumed by the local market. Then, if the country knows a crisis, the producers too. Waiting, they make their best to live, or survive.

P1240560P1240567But the best of Bonfanti doesn’t match with my palate. The Chardonnay 2014 is too full-bodied and lively. The Malbec Joven (withtout oak) 2014 is too young and too close. The Malbec Reserva (one year oaked) 2011 jammy and rough. And the Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec Reserva 2009 heady. Anyway, a tasting which didn’t go down in history, but without regret because the visit was really interesting with a pleasant family.

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Not disturbed for all that, I stop in a small restaurant to snack few empanadas. And there, I taste the best empanadas of the travel ! So, it would be indecent to not match its with a local malbec, which already intrigued me by its label: a French flag with Joan of Arc. And there, I taste the best Malbec of the travel ! Some black fruits (blueberry, blackberry, kirsched cherry), sweet spices (cinnamon, cloves) balanced by melted tanins and an alocoholic degree well integrated to make this jewel a mellowness…I ask where I can visit the cellar: and there, I speak with the most beautiful waitress of the travel…er…sorry, I get lost… So, this tiny canteen belongs to the bodega located…next door. But not open for tourism, I smooth-talk a bit and…the young oenologist is ready to hold me 😉 From an abandoned cellar,  is 4 years old, only. Lucas, the Argentinian œnologist, studied in the Mendoza oenology school, one of the oldest of South America. And despite his youthful, he was already awarded in some contests, especially Argentina Wine Awards (the most important of Argentina). The production, located at Tulumaya (nearby of Lujan de Cuyo), is composed of Sangiovese (Chianti‘s variety), Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Torrontès. By the way, I won’t resist to come back the next day to taste, you understand now, the best Torrontès of the travel…An incredible mixing of whit peach, apricot with jasmin, rose and camomile. A delight !

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But enough Malbec for today…I will return at in the next article with a wine of Mass, a biodynamical producer, the mythical Bela Vista of Achaval Ferrer and the Vendimia. Meanwhile, I am going to the launch of the most important South American wine guide: Descorchados ! Salud !

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